The drives were getting more exciting every day, and today promised to be the most exciting of all. I was particularly looking forward to driving up the famous and treacherous Zoji La (Zoji pass.)
The night before Chanda spoke to the hotel manager and other locals around to confirm the army convoy situation in Sonmarg. Everybody suggested that we start early in the morning and reach Sonmarg before 12.30pm.
We started early to reach Sonmarg before the army convoy started as traveling with the convoy would slow us down considerably. To save time, we decided to get breakfast packed from the hotel. The packed breakfast included bread, omelettes, and tomato ketchup.
While loading the vehicle, we all took a tablet of Diamox. Since we were traveling to higher altitudes after leaving Srinagar, it was important either to go slow or take the high-altitude medication. We couldn't afford to go slow because of tight schedules and opted for the medication.
Jeeps loaded, medicine taken, pictures taken - we started our journey.
Srinagar has borne the blunt of terrorism for decades now and the tourism industry has been the worst hit. The decline was evident as we drove out of the city.
We saw empty house boats, badly in need of repair, in Dal lake. The roads were deserted, even at 8:00 AM, despite the fantastic climate. I wondered how this place might have been decades ago, when Kashmir was one of the hottest tourist spots in the country. Several classic films have been shot here.
Canal near the hotel
Dal lake
Deserted walkway around Dal lake
It took us nearly an hour to get out of the city. We first filled diesel and petrol in our vehicles and filled some in our spare tanks (which we later found was quite unnecessary.) Then we took lots of photographs - the place was just too beautiful.
The road was initially quite narrow but very scenic. Even as we took in the natural beauty, the poverty around us was unmistakable. Decades of terrorism has weakened the economy. People who once depended on tourism are very badly off. Only infrastructure that's useful to the army, i.e., roads, are well maintained.
Scenic drive out of Srinagar
Shepherds on the road
We finally decided to drive on and stop taking pictures. It was getting late and we had to reach Sonmarg on time. We stopped for breakfast, a little after Kangan for breakfast, at a little roadside dhaba. The dhaba was not great but the location was scenic. We ate the breakfast that we had brought along with us and bought tea from the dhaba. Chanda tried being adventurous and ordered aloo parantha. :) To her dismay, it was bad. She didn't have much choice because she avoids eggs as much as possible.
While we guys ate bread and omelettes, Chanda managed to buy herself a good semi-pashmina shawl from the shop nearby.
Breakfast
Shonan gets geo political updates from a kid
Kangan, a small town on the highway
We now drove at a steady pace. The route was scenic and everybody, except Chanda and Thomas, was into the clicking-pictures-nonstop mode.
The drive so far had been very smooth and scenic. The highway, NH 1D, was in great shape and there were very few people in sight. The few people we did see were shepherds.
Kangan to Sonmarg
Kangan to Sonmarg
Kangan to Sonmarg
We reached Sonmarg by 10:30 AM. The sight of Sonmarg completely amazed me. Contrary to my expectations, this was a tiny little town and the main thoroughfare was not more than two kilometers long. There were several small shops on one side and a few resorts on the other. Army presence was heavy.
We enter Sonmarg
We enter Sonmarg
We enter Sonmarg
Now we we had reached several hours before the convoy was to leave, we decided to rest a little, buy some water and essential supplies, and then continue. We bought honey, candies, chocolates, and some track pants. A note for the female travelers. Most of the restaurant owners let you use their toilets.
Don't expect it to be super-clean and sparkling-shining but just about usable.
After Sonmarg, the climb would be pretty steep and the next town where we would find any supplies was Dras - the second coldest inhabited place in the world. This segment of our drive was going to take us through Zoji La (Zoji pass), the gateway to Leh.
After finishing shopping, the drive to Zoji La began quite well. The road continued to be good and we made fine progress. We stopped to take pictures and enjoy the scenery.
The climb, however, soon began to get steeper. We had switched drivers at Sonmarg, and Shonan was driving. For me, this drive was a childhood fantasy coming true. I had always dreamt of driving up the Himalayan roads. I had read about the treacherous road conditions. As soon as the ascend towards Zoji La started, I dismissed my driver (who must have gotten pretty pissed as he climbed into the Gypsy at our first halt) and took to the wheel.
Sonmarg to Zoji La
Sudden ascent
We were now on one of the most dangerous roads in India, NH 1D. This road is a critical supply route for the army and Ladakh. It is also part of the ancient silk route. Winters in this region are very bitter and authorities close down this road due to snowfall. We saw all kind of vehicles on this difficult road. In fact, a guy was traveling in his Bajaj Chetak. Unbelievable. :)
One cannot but admire the work done by the Border Roads Organization in building and maintaining roads in such treacherous terrain. We saw several memorials, dedicated to soldiers, who lost their lives while protecting and maintaining this road.
Dangerous curves...
...and steep drops
Memorial to a fallen BRO soldier
Scenic Beauty
We soon crossed the Zoji La gate and the road deteriorated progressively. Some of us began to experience the effects of high altitude like breathlessness and tingling in the fingertips. This tingling was the side-effect of Diamox.
Our vehicles too were complaining of lack of oxygen. The Bolero was belching out black smoke every time I we climbed a steep incline. The road conditions were beginning to deteriorate with huge potholes right in the middle of the roads. There was lose gravel and slush all around.
Road conditions deteriorate as we cross the Zoji La gate
My joy turned to absolute pleasure when I first caught sight of snow, slush, and terrible roads. By now, we had climbed quite a bit and it had gotten very cold. It had snowed recently and it was white everywhere. This was turning out to be a drive of a lifetime and I was not going to ruin it by doing anything stupid. As I gingerly negotiated the water-logged road, I followed some sound advice that I had read and heard in several offroading journals and events:
1. Crawl, don't run - When climbing, engage a low gear and crawl slowly at a constant speed.
2. One gear - one speed - Climb and descend on the same gear and the same speed. Use "engine breaking" for maximum traction.
3. Don't change gears often - You will lose traction. Stick to a single gear and speed.
I know that I've repeated the same message thrice, but if you don't do this, you might get killed!! I mean it.
Snow
Water crossing - one of the many on the way
The Road
The Road
The Road
We soon descended and the road got better.
The better road
However, it was getting colder and colder as we were getting nearer to our destination. We saw several bikers on the way - brave souls on the ultimate adventure trip. We soon reached the Zoji La war memorial where we stopped to take pictures. The memorial was covered in snow and soldiers were clearing it with shovels. The war memorial is dedicated to the soldiers who died in the 1978 India-Pakistan war. The inclement weather was just a precursor of the inhospitable conditions under which the soldiers operate. We were sufficiently moved and we all saluted the fallen soldiers before we departed.
Zoji La war memorial
Clearing the snow
The Gang! (sans Chanda)
The sky was overcast and and it began to snow. Our vehicles were filthy, especially the Bolero and I loved it that way. We continued our journey and we were soon descending towards Dras. The road conditions improved marginally, but I was not complaining. There were several tourist cabs on the highway driven by manic drivers who seemed to push their vehicles to the limit. The Mahindra Xylo seemed to be a hit with the drivers.
Filthy Bolero - the way I like it
The route became scenic once again and the road was much better save for the occasional pothole. We stopped for lunch and finished the leftovers of the breakfast. We hadn't come across a single eatery after leaving Sonmarg. The food tasted good! While we were having our lunch, Shibu was trying to do some offroading with his gypsy. His joy was same as a small kid getting a new toy. His gypsy was getting attention wherever we were going and that made Shibu happier.
Lunch on the mountains
Now we began descending. The sight of towering mountains, crowned in white snow, with an azure backdrop was breathtaking.
Better road and great scenery
Another great view
We were nearing Dras now, which a little over a decade ago, was the scene of the bloody Kargil war. Dras is the second coldest inhabited place on the planet and is a small impoverished town overlooked by Tiger Hill.
Dras valley
Dras Military Station sign
We passed Tiger Hill before we entered the town. There was some VIP visiting that day and the police were on alert. We had some difficulty getting the police to allow us to photograph Tiger hill. We stopped for some time to have some tea and snacks in Dras. While some of us were sitting and sipping the hot yum tea, Shibu and Shon started talking to some locals. They took pictures of two guys who were wearing army uniforms. Talking to them, we realized that they are not army regulars. Shibu and Shon took their pictures and promised to send the pictures across to them.
Another interesting thing happened in Dras. Shibu and Thomas were talking while having sipping their tea. Suddenly, a young army chap came to them with sparkle in his eyes and started talking to them in Malayalam. He was thrilled to hear Shibu and Thomas talking in Malayalam. Then, he told us that they are posted in borders, where they have no contact with the civilian world. They come once a week to down, buy things and to make calls to their loved ones.
Tiger hill
Dras town
Thomas, Shibu and Shonan pose with some soldiers (definitely not Army regulars)
We didn't want to be delayed by the arriving VIP. So, we finished our tea quickly and exited the town. The weather was much better now and with our hunger satiated, we were taking it easy. While Shonan and Anil continued at a good pace, Jeep Captain (Shibu) and I stopped several times to take pictures. As we exited the town, we passed the war memorial and the Draupadi kund.
Driving along the Dras valley towards Dras war memorial (we didn't shoot the war memorial)
The Gypsy and the Bolero
The drive suddenly became exciting for a completely different reason - an accident. A tempo traveler coming from the opposite direction almost hit us, but missed and hit the side-view mirror instead. The glass splinters (miraculously) missed our eyes. We (Chanda and I) were covered with shattered glass. We gingerly got out and brushed away the glass fragments. We were a bit shaken, but not hurt. Shonan spoke to the driver of the other vehicle who complained that we had not given him enough space - WTF!!! We were on a very narrow road and I was already on the edge. A few more inches and we would have tumbled down the mountain!!
Children of the Valley
We began to ascend again. Kargil was just about 60 kms away and it was still bright. But we knew that weather in mountains could be unpredictable. So, we continued driving without wasting much time. The fact that we were driving through a war zone was so evident. We saw a board that warned us that we were being watched by the enemies!!
Nearing Kargil
Nearing Kargil
We finally reached Kargil in the evening. Kargil, the focal point of the Kargil War, is a small town. An ancient town on the famous Silk Route, Kargil now is a shabby little town. The highway passes through the main market. The market has several bakeries and you can pick up good Ladakhi bread and other local bakery products.
We hadn't booked a hotel and to our horror, we realized that our mobile phones were not working. The night before Chanda and Shahid decided to stay in touch. Shahid said that he will help us in getting a hotel booked in Kargil.
However, because the mobile phone network was down in the valley, Shahid couldn't get in touch with his friend to do the booking. We couldn't also get in touch with him to confirm. Adding to our difficulties, most of the telephone booths were out of order. Shopkeepers were not very interested in helping us.
We finally decided to park our jeeps in the parking area of the market. Chanda and Shonan went to a couple of hotels. But all the hotels were full.
Chanda tried negotiating with one of the hotel owner for at least 1 room. He said he can't give them a room but can talk to one of his friend and check with him. He called his friend and told Chanda and Shonan how to reach that other hotel.
Chanda and Shonan returned and told us about the whole situation. We decided that before going out of the town to this other hotel, we should at least try some more hotels in the town.
Chanda and Thomas took off in the Gypsy to look for a hotel. Meanwhile, I called up Shahid, from a telephone booth for his suggestion. He put me in touch with another friend who suggested D' ZojiLa! Chanda and Thomas returned. The places that they had visited didn't have rooms, but they all recommended De Zoji La. Now, everybody was recommending this hotel and we didn't have any other option also left. We decided to move one.
Chanda and Thomas were in the gypsy and rest of us were in the Bolero. Gypsy was leading us. Whenever they used to stop to ask for directions, people used to talk to Thomas. That was a funny situation because he doesn't know Hindi/Urdu. Chanda would ask in Hindi, those guys wouldn't look at her and reply to Thomas. Thomas will look at Chanda and then Chanda would reply. :)
We finally reached the hotel. Shonan and Chanda got down and literally ran to the reception. Luckily for us, we reached just in time. That guy agreed to give us 3 rooms and those were the last rooms available.
It turned out to be a great place. The place was clean and comfortable and the food was awesome! We checked in, parked our vehicles, and sat down for a group discussion about how to improve the Bangalore Bolero club!
While all this action was happening, the town was getting tense. We asked people around in the hotel and we came to know that Farooq Abdullah is passing by Kargil and that's why lot of police and army around.
We also waited to see the carven. After hours of tense wait by everybody, the carven passed by in no time.
Talking about Bangalore Bolero club, plan for the next day and other things, we decided to call it a day.
